文:吳比娜
曾經遇到一個跑馬拉松的人,他看城市的角度就是不一樣,想想看,有哪一個活動可以讓人延續不斷在城市中跑四十二公里、與環境親密接觸?
他一定最知道哪些地方最有廢氣、哪些地方最蔭涼、到了哪裡人車會稀少,跟著馬拉松選手去看城市,收集他們的意見到城市規畫,應該是件很有趣的事。
世界知名的城市馬拉松賽有倫敦、柏林、紐約、東京馬拉松等。跑馬拉松是認識城市最好的方式。倫敦的馬拉松從市區的東南端出發,沿著泰晤士河一路曲折、轉彎,倫敦塔橋、白金漢宮、西敏寺……,跑者行經最有名的歷史景點,可以在跑步中一窺城市風貌。
柏林的馬拉松路線穿越東西柏林,從東德的極簡、樸素的公共建築,跨越到西德摩登、現代的商業區,據跑者表示,幾乎是上了一堂現代史課。
城市馬拉松的路線設計是一種與環境對話的藝術,以舊金山馬拉松為例,跑者的感受隨著一路的景致而變化,從涼爽多霧的清晨出發,經過水岸,在早晨欣賞壯觀的金門大橋海景,來到金門公園,沿著曲折起伏的街道穿過無數的社區小公園,經過有許多拉丁美洲裔住民的教會區、以嬉皮文化著稱的海特街等特色鄰里,最後才回到渡輪大樓。
然而路線本身並不是全部,是兩旁夾道歡迎群眾,讓跑步成為整個城市歡慶的盛事,人們尖叫、唱歌、擊掌、寫標語……,像是迎接古希臘羅馬時代的英雄般的為跑者加油打氣,這才是讓跑者感動而忘記疲勞的馬拉松。
台北的馬拉松路線是由市政府出發,從仁愛路跑到中正紀念堂、總統府,經由中山北路到大佳河濱公園,接到基隆河,最後才折返回市政府廣場。據參加過朋友說,早期比賽開辦時,在交通繁忙的台北要協調道路出來給跑者跑步還是有一定的困難度,當警察拉起管制線時,常常會有汽機車族氣急敗壞地說:「我現在要去接小孩」、「我趕著要上班遲到了」,似乎不能接受,為什麼要把道路空間讓給在路上跑步的人。
跑是種衝動,人們天生熱愛跑步的感覺,小的時候,在遊戲中我們盡力衝刺,大人要大吼大叫才能讓我們慢下來。
跑步也深植於人類的集體想像中,人類是唯一為了好玩和娛樂,會群聚跑四十二公里的動物……熱愛跑步的感覺,是人類最先學會的能力,跑者以身體作為媒介,讓直覺與本能自由發揮。在《天生就會跑》這本跑步名著裡,書裡甚至推演出一個很極端的假設:人類演化的動力是跑步,儘管人類不是跑得最快的,在追逐獵物時,卻是最有耐力的。傳統喀拉哈里沙漠的布須曼人的長程狩獵、看似單調的長跑過程,其實在腦海中必須推斷獵物行蹤,融入感覺、抽象思考,與預測未來,這跟我們在科學、醫藥、還有創作藝術上心智活動是一樣的。
可以想見,隨著文明演化,當人類不再擁有跑步的環境而居住在條條框框的城市裡,被斑馬線、紅路燈規範前進的方向與速度,受到多麽大的壓抑!
熱愛跑步的風潮打開了人們對於空間的視野,跑友沿著大佳、景美、基隆河濱公園練跑,路線漸漸延伸,各種街頭路跑團體深入城市巷弄,在網路上討論各地區適合練跑的私房路線〈最好是有遮蔭、有風、鋪面舒適、坡度適中〉。走出城市,還有越野路跑,隨便在台北哪個郊山都有跑者滿山遍野的穿梭奔跑。透過跑步,人們與環境的關係漸漸被串連起來。
不只是長跑,長程行走的風氣也興盛。人們紛紛上路,徒步環島的人數之多,簡直已成為一種教派,民間也有「千里步道」團體,提倡手作營造一條延續不斷的路網,蜿蜒於田野與山海之間,讓人們可以透過步行臨山近海,走入平原,也隨時可以留宿在小村小鎮上,探索環境。
這樣的步行,幾乎具有一種神聖性,這也就是為什麼,梭羅說漫步者跟朝聖者(Sainte-Terrer )具有同樣的字源,中古世紀人們往往假託朝聖之名在鄉野流浪,相較於老蹺着二郎腿坐著足不出戶的城裡人,梭羅認為「漫步時,我們會自然而然地走進田野和森林裡,這是尋找生命之泉的行動」。
是的,在今日,被斑馬線、紅路燈、捷運站分割的城市中,似乎我們要找到一種線性空間,在裡面,我們能重新感受到身體在空間中移動自由。
封面照片:眼底城事編輯室
作者:吳比娜
出版社:詹氏書局
出版日期:2021/8

著有《在留白城市散步》《尋訪台江古早味》,合譯有《明日的農場》等書,喜歡大街小巷趴趴走,嚮往營造更理想的生活環境。從在城市散步,希望趕快到城郊農場去耕種~
背景是台大城鄉所、哈佛公共政策與都市規劃碩士。
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